The Sunday of fashion week saw fashion label ANNDERSTAND debut their autumn winter collection, titled ‘Romance Revolution’ at the Freemason’s hall, London. Ge Yu, the designer behind the label, came into the fashion scene last year, after graduating in 2010 from Parsons the new school for design. A variation of the word understand, the brand name wants to connect with as many women as possible, aiming to inspire their own personal styles, no matter where they are in the world.
The collection this year was an eclectic fusion of Asian and western influence, with strong tailoring, neutral colour palettes and the occasional deep jewel tone. It featured dresses, jackets and fringed skirts that had a deep gun-metal grey metallic finish which added a soft grunge element to the feminine styles. The colours in most her designs were a safe choice, sticking to black, white and grey with the occasional pop off bottle green or deep navy, but there was a definite air of punk in her choice to incorporate unexpected contrasts in the collection.
The collection did, however, have a few surprise pieces, with a monochrome leopard print coat, adorned with a soft white faux-fur shawl, layered over a sheer black bralette. There was also a military inspired navy velvet cape, proving that the designer is not scared to add an updated twist to classic shapes and silhouettes. There was a definite structured and sophisticated vibe to most of the pieces. This being said, the incorporation of contrasting textures, materials, colours and patterns created a unique harmony between Asian and western inspired fashion in a fun yet subtle way.
The standout pieces for me were the two beige toned jackets, which were a modern twist on the classic woolen trench coat. One of the jackets was updated with lapel embellishments and a chunky camel coloured tie with a mid-length hem, whilst the other jacket remained more tailored, in a more structured fabric, soft Peter Pan style collar and a silhouette that resembled a mini A-line dress.
Heavy and dark smoky cat eyes paired with slicked, wet ponytails created a hair and beauty choice that seemed polished and distressed at the same time; complementing the whole collection perfectly. There was a confident attitude exerted not only by the models but by the pieces themselves. It was interesting to see how the contrasting elements of individual garments came together as a collection to create a beautiful, soft-grunge-like femininity to the pieces, and it was clear what the vision was behind the design.
I think the metallic trend is definitely going to be more prominent in autumn winter 2017, and classic structured shapes such as the trench coat and slip dress will continue to get an update throughout the year. For their second year as a design house, it is only fair to both applaud and admire ANNDERSTAND for creating a captivating collection that not only inspired their audience but also created a clear indication of the trends that will be making their mark towards the end of the season.